Restoration and Rebirth: Rejuvenating Sanaa’s Ancient City Ravaged by Conflict in Yemen

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“Resilience Amidst Ruins: Sanaa’s Ancient City Struggles to Emerge from the Shadows of War”

The Old City of Sanaa, adorned with its distinctive burnt-brick tower-houses and renowned mosques, boasts a legacy that has endured across centuries. Yet, the devastating war in Yemen cast a dark cloud over its existence, pushing it to the brink of destruction.

For over 2,500 years, this historical haven stood firm against the tides of time. However, the emergence of conflict, pitting a Saudi-led coalition against Iran-backed Huthi rebels, posed imminent threats, with air strikes relentlessly targeting the area.

Salah Aldeen, a resident of the Old City, fondly recollects the days of its prime: “Tourists once flocked here as if they were as numerous as Yemeni locals. People from all corners of the world—Italy, Germany, and beyond—would visit daily to marvel at its beauty. But today, due to security concerns and the haunting effects of war, their footfalls have faded, despite the city’s inherent safety.”

Doaa al-Waseai’s life was intertwined with the Old City. As a tour guide, she reveled in unveiling its hidden gems—hammams, bustling markets adorned with silver and spices—to foreigners. Yet, nearly a decade of conflict has transformed her world. The Old City, her childhood haven, now seems detached from the globe, its ancient earthen structures deteriorating.

“Tourism was my gateway to understanding my own heritage,” Waseai, now 40, reflects, her grasp of foreign languages waning over time. “No language can encapsulate the catastrophe we’re enduring—be it English, German, or even French.”

The Old City, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site for almost forty years, earned the “in danger” label in 2015, when Saudi Arabia led a military intervention to salvage Yemen’s vulnerable government.

In the midst of waiting for the war’s end, Waseai diligently documented the city’s decline, meticulously recording collapsed residences and battered establishments. She channels her energy into pursuing a master’s degree in tourism, hopeful that her efforts will eventually contribute to the city’s resurgence.

“We’re losing Old Sanaa,” she laments. “My heart aches as I say that.”

During the initial months of conflict, the Old City bore the brunt of airstrikes, reducing centuries-old homes and gardens to rubble. Waseai, who had heard stories of similar devastation during a civil war in the 1960s, found herself facing a reality she never imagined.

“Why target our beloved city?” she pondered. “Old Sanaa holds no weaponry, and attacking our history is forbidden. They’re erasing our heritage.”

While the Saudi-led coalition refuted responsibility for the destruction, the hazards escalated as the conflict persisted.

UNESCO associate project officer Mohammed al-Jaberi notes the fragility of the Old City’s homes, adorned with delicate white gypsum detailing, requiring constant upkeep. Economic hardship amid the war made it impossible for many families to maintain their homes, as unpaid salaries and soaring food costs took precedence.

Drainage systems deteriorated, leaving the ancient buildings susceptible to collapse during flash floods. While fighting has diminished since a temporary ceasefire in April 2022, the absence of a lasting truce has left institutions, including the preservation body responsible for safeguarding historic sites, in dire straits due to funding shortages.

In the midst of this adversity, there remains hope that the Old City’s former glory can be revived. Abdullah Asaba, tending to his crops near the historic Yemen Gate, envisions the land’s rejuvenation, likening it to the city’s resurgence.

Salah Aldeen, who operates a traditional healing oil shop near the Yemen Gate, is driven by the memory of a bygone era when foreigners graced the city’s streets. He believes those days will return and likens the Old City’s journey to that of a patient recovering from an illness.

“Ultimately, recovery is inevitable,” he asserts. “War may be an affliction, but we will heal.”

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paige christiana

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